SiRamik APT Ceramic Coating


As per the last update I now have freshly painted and very shiny looking car. In the past I have never really been particularly bothered about the condition of the paint and I have always prioritised driving the car over polishing it.

Now the car looks so amazing after the respray I feel I need to try and maintain the condition of the paint. A couple of weeks after receiving the car back from S&D I decided to wash the car. I used the 2 bucket method with PH neutral shampoo and a Dodo Juice Carnauba wax. I am not sure what I did wrong but I managed to introduce swirl marks into the paint which was very disappointing. After seeking advice from various other owners who know more about paint the various processes and products required to maintain paintwork that I do, it all seemed very complicated and time consuming.

I know many people really enjoy polishing their cars but I don’t get much spare time with a young family as it is and I get more enjoyment out of driving it so the ceramic coat suits my requirements. For this reason I opted for a glass based ceramic coating which lasts 3+ years and in comparison to wax requires very little maintenance. The coating is very durable and fairly idiot proof against swirl marks etc, apparently all I need to do to maintain the finish is wash the car and occasionally use a top up detailing spray.

I was recommended by a friend to a local detailer who has experience with Ceramic coatings, Byod Rees of BR Car Detailing.

Byod is accredited by SiRamik, which I understand is one of the leaders in the Ceramic coating industry. I have seen examples of his work before so I had not hesitation in booking him.

Byod works from GT101 in just outside of Colchester in Essex so local for me. The car was  first given an enhancement detail with two stages of machine polishing to remove light imperfections and increase paint clarity. Next was the SiRamik APT ceramic coating (1 coat of Ultima and 1 of Altum). Byod also proofed the new roof with 303 Fabric Guard and a ceramic coating to the wheels.

I will let the work speak for itself but suffice to say I am very impressed. I thought the car was shiny when I picked it up freshly sprayed from S&D but the detailing has added a new depth to the paint and the ceramic coating is so shiny it looks like a mirror.









Having overhauled and upgraded various mechanical items on the car over the years, the next item to receive some attention was the bodywork. The of the car nose had what can only be described as a galaxy of stone chips. The paint on the wings had micro blistered and every panel on the car had some form of scratch, scuff or abrasion.

For me there was only ever one place that the car was going to go for a respray and that is back home to Surface & Design located in one of the ex-factory units in Bristol Avenue, Blackpool. The team is made up of ex TVR staff who as you would expect have detailed knowledge of TVR. David Martin who runs Surface & Design I have had a number of dealings with now and I have always been impressed by his ‘can do’ attitude and the attention to detail of his work.

I asked S&D to fully resprayed in the same colour is it left the factory, Aston Martin Limited Mendip Blue metallic. I also asked for a number of non standard enhancements along the way:

  • Chimaera style vented bonnet with black mesh vents
  • Griffith SE wing mirrors without standard extender plugs
  • Griffith SE 7 inch lamps
  • Brake Reservoir and Clutch reservoir covers

I will let the pictures do the talking.


I am in the process of writing a more detailed article which will hopefully be appearing in the TVRCC magazine Sprint soon. I will also be taking some better photographs.

A huge thank you to David and the team at S&D for completing a superb job on my car, they truly are masters of their craft.

180° Crossover Equal Length Manifolds


Most TVR owners will be familiar with Clive Ford’s stainless master pieces in the form of his popular manifold Y Piece. Last year Clive surpassed himself and created a tuned crossover manifold system, the same design as seen on the legendary Le Mans winning Ford GT40 that somehow fits under the bonnet of a Griff.

So what is the point of a crossover manifold? The issue with a conventional 4-1 exhaust header is the separation between exhaust impulses. With a 90° (cross plane) crankshaft 2 exhaust pulses exit through the collector at the same time. A crossover manifold pairs the correct cylinders that fire 180° degrees apart in their firing are paired together, maximizing scavenging. When one cylinder is on the compression stroke, the other is on the exhaust stroke resulting in a constant flow, thus creating equally spaced exhaust pulses.The result is similar to that of a 180° (flat plane) crankshaft with four evenly spaced exhaust pulses in each header.

I had managed to resist the temptation of Clive’s latest masterpiece until I bumped into fellow Griff owner Peter Billington at the Griff Growl last year. Peter has a immaculate, sensibly modified Griffith and had just completed fitting the crossover manifold system. Peter very kindly offered to take me out for a spin in his to demonstrate the new manifolds and I was sold. The sound was incredible, a cross between a RV8 and Cerebra with the howl of a GT40 higher up the rev range…. epic! A few weeks later Clive received an order.

I am still running the OEM Lucas 14CUX ECU on my Griffith. I asked Clive to build the manifolds with two narrowband lambda sensor bosses (one per bank)  for the 14CUX and two wideband lambda sensor bosses for a future expansion (aftermarket ECU). I also asked for a wideband lambda sensor to fitted where both banks merge to allow me to run an AFR gauge at a later date.

Running the 14CUX with this system does pose an issue in that the lambda sensors in standard configuration read from  cylinders 2,4,6 and 8, and 1,3,5 and 7. With the crossover manifolds fitted the sensors read cylinders 1, 4, 6 and 7, and 2,3,5 and 8. The 14CUX is bank fired so to correct this it is a simple case of extending the injector wiring so injector wires 3 and 5 are swapped for 4 and 6.

Changing manifolds on a TVR is always a time consuming job due to the lack of access to the bolts. 2 long evening later the manifolds were fitted. The water pipe to the radiator was rerouted underneath the chassis rail and I took the opportunity to fit a JE alternator bracket to replace the tensioner.


First impressions are very good. The car seems to rev much more freely and the sound is epic. Below is a quick test on a cold day in February with new tyres so not going too mad. I will record a better video soon…

The car went to Dom at TVR Power for a service in March, while the car was in I asked him to put the car on the dyno for a power run to check the AFRs and also see what difference the manifolds made.

2016 Dyno Result

275.17BHP & 295.93ftlb at the wheels.

TVR Power dyno reads in wheel figures so I have converted to flywheel figures using the below site

BHP – 324BHP
Torque – 348ftlb


2017 Dyno Result

274.52BHP & 301.77ftlb at the wheels.

BHP – 323BHP
Torque – 355ftlb


Peak torque is up a bit but I am mainly impressed by the healthy increase in bottom end torque. The result is certainly promising but the car is running rich now so not really a fair comparison without a remap. There will certainly be more come with an adjustment on the fuelling and the addition of mapped ignition.

Battery Relocation

TVR Battery relocation is always a fiercely debated subject. The standard location is in the passenger footwell along with the ECU and fusebox. Although some will argue that this is the best place, in the Griffith passenger leg room can be described as woeful at best. My second motivation for looking into relocation is to tidy up the mess in the footwell and to allow easier access to the fusebox and ECU.

Existing battery location

The OEM battery is a standard lead acid type 072.

072 Battery Specifications
AH Value 70
CCA 570
Reserve Capacity 125
Length 261mm
Depth 175mm
Height 220mm
Weight 18.4 KG

A popular battery relocation option and one that a number of TVR owners have opted for over the years is to fit a single Odyssey PC925 battery in the boot of the car. Speaking to owners who have fitted this battery, all have been very pleased with the result long term and have not had any notable issues.


Odyssey PC925 Specifications
AH Value 28
CCA 330
Reserve Cap 27
Length 168mm
Depth 179mm
Height 148mm
Weight 11.8 KG

Odyssey batteries are widely regarded as one of the best batteries available and have various advantages over traditional types of battery:

Cranking power – capable of providing engine cranking pulses in excess of 2250 amps for 5 seconds, double to triple that of equally sized conventional batteries
Longer service life – up to 10 years of service life
Longer cycle life – 70% longer cycle life than conventional deep cycle batteries
Faster recharge – The highest recharge efficiency of any sealed lead battery on the market, capable of 100% recharge in 4-6 hours.
Mounting flexibility – Non-spillable design, can be mounted on any side in any position except inverted.
Vibration resistance – Design protects against high impact shock and mechanical vibration, a common cause of premature battery failure.
Extreme temperature tolerant – Operating temperatures from -40°C to 45°C
Small footprint – flat plates made of 99.99% pure lead, not lead alloy. Pure lead plates can be made thinner.

Relocating the battery in the boot is great from an accessibility point of view but the issue for me is the fact the battery is located next to the fuel tank. While I accept that you do not buy a TVR for its safety credentials, personally I am not entirely comfortable with potentially introducing additional risk if it can be otherwise avioded. The chassis of the Griffith does not extend much past the rear wheels which leaves the boot area of the car protected only by fibreglass in the event of a rear end shunt as can be seen in the picture below:


In search of other solutions I turned the PistonHeads TVR community to see what other owners had done with theirs. As always lots of assistance and ideas came flooding in. I did see a number of Chimaera owners who had created a custom compartment behind one of the seats out of fibreglass which looks like a great solution. Unfortunately in the Griff I needed to retain access under the whale tail to access the bolts which secures it in place.

There was one suggestion from fellow Griff owner Frank (eff eff) who had done something I had not seen before. Frank had two smaller Odyssey batteries wired in parallel, one fitted behind each seat. What a liked about the design was not only were the batteries safely stored within the passenger compartment, away from the fuel tank, but the weight was evenly distributed.  I decided this was the solution for me so I contacted Frank who very kindly shared the specification of his install with me so I could replicate this in my car.

My solution, heavily based on Frank’s design is as follows:

2 x Odyssey PC680 wired in parallel (same voltage but double the AH value). This results slightly higher AH and CCA values and almost double the reserve capacity figure of the tried and tested single PC925 solution.

Odyssey PC680 – Single
AH Value 16Ah
CCA 170
Reserve Cap 24mins
Length 184mm
Depth 79mm
Height 191mm
Weight 7KG

Odyssey PC680 – Double
AH Value 32Ah
CCA 340
Reserve Cap 48mins
Weight 14KG

Regarding the hold down kit, the official kit from Odyssey would not fit in the area behind the seats so I needed to source an alternative with a smaller foot print.

Odyssey Hold Down 2.jpg

After some searching on the internet I found a lightweight billet hold down kit from an American company called JPUSA. The hold down kit had a footprint only slightly larger that the PC680 battery itself.

Billet Hold Down 1.jpgbillet-hold-down-2

I understand from owners of TVRs equipped with the PC925 battery that the battery must not be allowed to run flat (under 10.5v) as the battery cannot be revived. Running the battery flat is not normally an issue for me as generally the car is attached to a trickle charger when not in use. I have run my existing battery flat a couple of times down to my own stupidity (leaving lights on etc). Due to the reduced reserve capacity of the Odyssey batteries vs the OE 072 battery I decided it would be a good idea to fit a battery monitor in the form of Battery Brain. A Battery Brain is a compact battery monitoring device that continually monitors the battery charge. If the charge to drops below the minimum required level (11.8v) to start the vehicle, it disconnects the battery. Not only does this stop you getting stranded it also protects the battery from becoming fully discharged. I decided to purchase the battery brain with the IR remote disconnect fob just in case I need to leave the car for a long period of time I can remotely disconnect the battery after I have locked the car.


I asked Jody at Python Racing to complete the conversion while the car was in having its annual MOT completed. As per usual Jody did an excellent job and I am very pleased with the end result. I will arrange for the trimmer to fit an extended piece of carpet in the passenger footwell and possibly carpet over the batteries in the near future.


I also purchased a new trickle charger for the car as part of this upgrade. I was unsure as to whether my Accumate trickle charger was compatible with AGM Gell batteries. To be on the safe side I purchased a new CTEK charger with an AGM battery mode.


Rear Brake upgrade

The rear brakes on my Griff were in need of some attention, I have had issues with intermittent binding over the last few years and as a result I managed to wear the pads down completely. The discs I believe are the originals from the factory and are heavily corroded so in need of replacement anyway.

As per usual I try to replace parts for upgraded items where I can so rather than OE I decided on a cheeky upgrade.

I already have the Alcon 4pot upgrade on the front of my Griff which I really like and fits under the 15″ OE wheel. The Alcon fill the front wheels nicely but the rears look a bit small now in comparison. After looking at various options and not wanting to upset the brake bias I decided to keep the original callipers and but go for bigger discs. My logic behind this is the brake bias was fine with OE front and rear, bias was fine with the 4pots on the front and OE on the back, so a larger disc on the back with OE callipers will bring this a little further back to OE so bias still fine. In theory!

I decided on the the Reyland 300mm rotor upgrade. I know a number of other owners who have had this fitted and are happy with it. It is also the same kit the Cossie boys use on their cars and there did not seem to be any complaints on their forums. I quick chat with Martin at Reyland and the kit was ordered.


I also decided to get the brake callipers refurbished and the brake build changed. Rather than sending them to one of the usual companies that specialise in brake calliper refurbishment I opted to use a TVR local specialist with experience in this area. Jody from Jody at Python Racing offers this service and has done a number of calliper rebuilds for various TVRs. I had asked him to match as closely as possible the original grey finish on Alcon 4 pot brakes I have fitted to the front.

Very impressed with the service and the end result….


The kit fitted:


Front (existing Alcon kit):


Snetterton 300 Track Day


Another Snetterton track day organised by fellow TVR Pistonheaders. One of my favourite tracks as it is less than 2 hours away from where I live and it suits the Griff being a power track with long straights.

The circuit for the track day was the full 3mile ‘300’ circuit which includes 2 fast straights and a number of more technical areas.

The noise limit for the day was 105dB static. Last year I just sneaked through the limit without the need for any additional cans. This year the same, the car was measured as 104dB much to the surprise of the MSV staff. On track unfortunately I I was black flagged as I breached the driveway noise limit and was required to don the ACT bolt on silencers.

The weather forecast was grim but the rain did not come in the quantity that was forecast so for the most part the track was dry. The TVR performed impeccably.

As per usual my trusty GoPro was on hand, unfortunately MSV deemed that the official 3M GoPro mount was no longer allowed for trackdays and all cameras needed to be mechanically mounted so I was not allowed to run with the camera on the front of the car.

I was also running Harry’s Lap Timer app on my iPhone, not for competitive lap timing as this is not allowed but for video telemetry overlay on my personal videos.

I have also invested in a Racelogic VBox Sport to use with Harry’s Lap Timer as the iPhone internal 1Hz GPS sensor proved did not seem to adequately keep up with the video before. The Racelogic VBox has a 20hz GPS sensor and pair with the iPhone using bluetooth. You can see it Gaffer taped to the dashboard in the video.


My best lap of the day was 2:24.66 at an average speed of 73.8MPH which I was happy with.





TVR Power Dyno Run


I booked the Griff in with Powers Performance (TVR Power) for a dyno run following my last visit to the drag strip for PH Sunday service. My 1/4 PB is 13.202 a couple of years ago, I have since changed the standard cam for a TVR Power 885 cam and the road tyres have been swapped for AD08Rs.

Sunday service was great fun but I could not get any faster than a 13.5 and my terminal speed was down from 107 to 104. My assumption was the car had lost a bit of power somewhere so I booked the car in with Jason at TVR Power.

To my suprise the car was up from 242.8BHP on the original TVR435 cam to 275.1BHP on the TVR Power 885 cam. Torque also looking more healthy up from 278 to 295. Clearly no horses have bolted the stable so clearly down to the driver :-/ perhaps I have lost some driver XP

TVR Power dyno reads in wheel BHP so I have converted to flywheel using the below site

BHP – 324BHP
Torque – 348ftlb

A huge thank you to Dom and Jason at TVR Power not only for accommodating me a short notice; despite using up over 2 hours of Jasons time and using the dyno cell Dom refused to take any money from me. A very kind gesture and I am most grateful.



Jason showed me some of the work he has been doing with the MBE ECUs which I am now 100% set on getting fitted to mine. Really nice pieces of kit and used by the likes of Caterham, Noble and Harley Davidson so fully type approved and OEM quality. Mine randomly lost all power last weekend, a quick rummage in the foot well and order was restored I think I am on borrowed time with my loom, it has already been repaired twice at great expense, looking at the quality looms Jason makes up for the MBE systems I am convinced this is the way to go.

The Griff did well against the M5s at Sunday service:

What I cannot work out is if I have a mildly tuned 500 with 275BHP at the wheels, how does a completely standard 500 leave me for dead mid track onwards despite getting a good start?

In summary TVR Power = awesome. TVR Power 885 cam = awesome. Driver needs lessons. How the F*** is Dave’s Griff so quick?